Kapadokya



After hot-air ballooning and after a 2-hour nap we had a full day of exploration ahead of us. Our first item on the itinerary was to visit the surrounding landscape. We had to get a feel for our surroundings.

These were some of the caves we went into.

A contemporary cave-house (by contemporary I mean 400 years old!)
The entirety of the floor was covered by kilims.
After our exploration of the surroundings we finally headed off for Goreme (Gore-em-ay). This is where many backpackers station themselves, and this is where we later came to watch the Semifinals of the Eurocup. After arriving in Goreme we had lunch and headed to the Open Air Museum. The Open Air Museum featured numerous Byzantine churches dug into the tuft material that the mountains are made of. There were numerous paintings within each of these churches, and it was interesting to note that there were discrepancies between the facts presented in the guidebooks and the history we (and by we I mean Clayton) knew. One church in particular, the Dark Church, featured only 1 small window. This meant that the paintings were kept from the sun's damaging effects. The following painting is of Mary. How do I know? Well, you may be able to notice the Greek script to the left and rigth of Mary's head. The letters are Mu, Ro, Theta, and Gamma. These letters are the first and last letters to MotheR of GoD. Intersting eh?

After all of the exploring and awe-strucken looks, we headed back to our amazing cave-dwelling of-a-hostel where we had a delicious dinner followed by a return to Goreme to watch the Eurocup. Even though we may have lost the game, the Turks were definitely celebrating as if we had won!The partying finally came to an end and we returned to Uchisar (ooch-hiss-ar) to our beds where we had peaceful dreams about the numerous layers of Turkish identity.

My bed within the cave where I dreamt of Turkey's landscape, history, and people...zzz...

The next day we visited the largest excavated underground city in the world! Some say that it housed between 20,000-25,000 residents for a period of 2 or 3 weeks while the city above ground was under siege. However, Professor Shields brought to our attention that within the academic world there is much debate over the role of the underground city and the number of residents it housed. In other words, no one has a concrete idea of what the underground city was for, and everything one is told from the tour guides are fictional stories. Pictured below is Clayton crawling through one of the tunnels of the underground city.

This underground city must have catered to people of short stature

After an exhilarating time in the underground city we picked up our cameras and headed to Ihlara Valley. We hiked through numerous environments including, but not limited to, rain forests, deserts, meadows, caves, streams, and thistle-laden paths. Seeing all of these numerous caves, we could not resist from entering them! This particular cave, pictured below, had a few rooms. Oh, and it was PITCH BLACK! We resorted to flashes of our cameras and echolocation to determine where we stood in the cave.


After near-death experiences in the cave and dehydration we ended our day with a nice dip in a crater lake. Here's some context to our experience at the lake. Me, being a Kansan, and hardly ever experiencing large bodies of water such as lakes or oceans, I got pressured into swimming across the length of this lake! It was the longest distance I had ever swam without being able to touch the bottom. Good thing both of my legs cramped up half way, eh? Luckily, I made it to the other side without drowning. I've included a picture of Clayton and me standing in front of the lake.
I swam approximately 1 km!

Another amazing end to another amazing day. The next day entailed the ever-popular search for the fairy chimneys. Fairy chimneys are what Kapadokya are known for. They are a geological phenomenon that occurs when erosion takes sculpts a former large mass of tuft into a pillar-shaped mass topped off with a denser material on top that erodes slower than the rest of the tuft. The result is a fairy chimney, but they more closely resemble something else. :) See for yourself. The pictures I have of the fairy chimneys are not from our quest for them, as we hiked through hills and caves without ever seeing a single fairy chimney. The picture shown below is from my hot-air balloon experience.


Here's a close-up for those of you with vision impairments.

While the excursion may not have reaped what we had imagined, we did find one enormous church in a cave with an interesting ceiling. The ceiling had these columns for purely aesthetic reasons. This is a motif none of us have ever seen.


After some hillside exploration we left Uchisar for Goreme one last time. This time we were leaving Kapadokya and heading towards Ankara. But before we left Kapadokya, we had to fill up our stomachs with a unique, local cuisine: pottery kebabs. Imagine a slow-cooked lamb stew inside a clay pot, cooking for 1 hour in the morning and 30 minutes right before you eat it--this is the succulent meal we had.


Up, Up and Away!


Today I went up in a hot-air balloon for the first time. It was an awesome experience, definitely worth the huge hole in my wallet and the lack of sleep due to a 4:50 AM pick-up time. The trip we took lasted for about 1 1/2 hours and flew across Kapadokya, the 2nd most beautiful place to go hot-air ballooning! However, according to our veteran pilot, David, who has flown hot-air balloons for 25 years all over the world, Kapadokya is the BEST place! I couldn't imagine a better place to go up, up and away.

The beginning of a beautiful day


Lindstrand, our balloon

What kept us in the air

A beautiful view from up high

We got close enough to the tree that I could pick apricots!

Looks like it was photoshopped, eh?

Shadow of our balloon

Around the World in 80 Days?

Dr. Seuss anyone?

The landscape was beautiful

Man Cherries?


MMM! In Turkey we have had fruit out the wazzoo, and one particular category of fruit that has been particularly delicious is the cherry. In Turkey there are 3 types of cherries. You have your visne (vish-nay) which are sour, beyaz kiraz (bay-az keer-az) which mean white cherry and are semi-sweet, and then kiraz (keer-az) which are the cherries we are all accustomed to. While in Istanbul I had tasted the visne and kiraz, however only upon reaching Esenlar did I have the opportunity to try the beyaz kiraz. Apparently, the beyaz kiraz are the Man Cherries and help the growth/birth of the other two women cherry trees. Bizarre eh? If I were to rank the cherries in order of best tasting, I would have to rank the beyaz kiraz as numero 1, then the kiraz, and last, but not least, the visne. Hopefully I will be able to find some of the beyaz kiraz back in the States.

We'll Be Coming Around the Mountain When We Come

The past 2 days I have been in the mountains in a village called Esinlar (esh-in-ler). The village was incredibly peaceful. I had never experienced anything like it before. Being in Turkey for approximately 5 weeks, we have been consumed with activities. My life has been one activity after another, even before Istanbul--can you imagine? Ha. Well, being up in the mountains without having to worry about wasting a minute of my life by sitting around 'doing nothing' gave me a sense of inner bliss. This was something I do not remember experiencing... The family we (Clayton and I) stayed with barely spoke any English so it was up to our Turkish skills to get us through the 2 days. Here are some photos of our experience in Esinlar.

The family minus dad in their general store.

Cherry-picking with Alper.

We slept on these one night. Gazing up at the stars without light pollution was amazing!

Who knew this place existed in the mountains?

You can figure out what's going on.

Splish, Splash We're Having a Blast

Egirdir, a small city located on Lake Egirdir, at first glance seems to be a town full of pensions and hostels but at a closer look has numerous hidden treasures. Our first dayin Egirdir consisted of visiting a Selcuk mosque and medrese. Closed and turned into a bazaar, respectively, we did not get to see much. However, the next day was awesome.
William was right when he decided we had to stop in Egirdir if only to visit the national park. The national park was void of a single human being except us! It was amazing to see such a beautiful place without the commotion one would see in the States or at any other national park. Here's a few photos out of hundreds.





The Higher, The Better

Is that Snow?

90-100 degrees weather, a city void of life, and 10 Burch Fellows Summer Research Seminar students equals a load of fun. Today we arrived in Pamukkale known for their white mountains. What seems to be snow in 100-degree temperature turns out to be calcium deposits. This is where the fun really begins!

Well, the fun really began when we had to change on the side of the 'road' because we did not have our bathing suits on. Here's a G-rated snapshot of David changing in public in the middle of the afternoon. Real classy David.

Looks like snow, eh?

After reaching the top of the mountain we chose to swim with the ruins. In the middle of this pool there were ancient columns and ruins right under our feet. It was exhilarating to be able to swim over, under, and around these ancient ruins. Here's a picture of the pool:


After swimming for a while, we decided to visit the rest of the ruins that were not immersed under water. The light was beautiful and the view was stupendous. Check out the link, David's Fledgling, underneath "BIRDS OF A FEATHER, FLOCK TOGETHER" to see an awesome picture of me with the landscape.

Here's a mediocre picture of Superman in the amphitheater:
Tomorrow we head off to Egirdir. Who knows what new and exciting things await? Stay tuned for the next episode of The Amazing Journeys of Edward!

Free Day!

Today Professor Shields decided to give us a free day. However, with all of the sites and point of interest Ephesus had to offer we had to create a schedule that only the gods could finish in one day. We decided to visit the Virgin Mary's house, Ephesus--the ancient city/ruins, an archaeological museum, lunch with a friend, swimming in the Aegean Sea, and a small Grecian village up in the mountains. Our first stop was the house of Virgin Mary, the home where she took in her last breath. Peace be with her. Here's a photo of her peaceful residence.


After the Virgin Mary's house we went to see the remains of Ephesus. The city was spectacular! At the time of its peak, Ephesus was housing 250,000 people. The ruins were also in great condition, especially when compared to Troy. There were homes, brothels, libraries, theaters, baths, and various other remnants of a booming city. Here is a photo of the facade of the library.
Quite a large library, eh?

Our next stop, for me, was underwhelming compared to all of the other museums we have visited. It had a small collection of items; however, it did have one particularly interesting exhibit. The exhibit consisted of numerous diagrams, identical to the one shown below, of the numerous ways people were killed in battle. In this particular case, a trident pierces the victim's skull causing instantaneous death--quite morbid.

P.S. the skull displayed is one they uncovered. They used bottom-up processes to recreate the diagrams: find wounded bone, find causal weapon, and draw diagram of death.
After the museum we had lunch with one of Emily's, rather wealthy, family friends. Lunch was delightful. After lunch we eagerly changed and drove to the Aegean Sea. This would be our first time in a body of water, except for the hamam and various other methods of bathing, since our arrival in Turkey.

You may notice that I'm in an awkward stance. That's due to my lack of sandals and the abundant amount of thistles under my feet. After this picture was taken I ended up with 20+ thistles per foot. I definitely took one for the team.
After a refreshing dip in the Aegean, we headed off to the mountains for the evening. Sirince (she-reen-jay), supposedly a Greek city with 600 inhabitants, rests in the valley. This peaceful village is known for its assortment of wines, peaches and olive oil. During lunch one of the ladies told us that the residents of Sirince have been traced to be the last descendants of the Ephesians. The validity of this statement is still questioned. After buying a couple bottles of wine, an assortment of bed spreads and table settings we finally found a place to wine and dine just like the Greeks.

Beautiful sunset + beautiful city + beautiful wine = marvelous end to a beautiful day

Carry On My Wayward Son

So after 4 adventure-filled weeks in Istanbul, our group is now on a 2-week excursion hoping to figure what Turkish identity is. We expect to be able to piece together this puzzle by the end of the trip :) At the very least, we hope to leave with some amazing photos of these historic sites sprawled throughout Turkey.

Here's a map , taken straight out of the Fez Travel guidebook of the locations we will be visiting in Turkey for the next two weeks.
So we started on our two-week excursion this past Sunday, being that there was no wireless internet I have not been able to post since then. The first day included an extensive tour of Gallipoli, the famous battle where Mustafa Kemal Ataturk had an outstanding victory giving him the fame he needed to rise to the top. Essentially, the ANZAC (Australia New Zealand Army Corps) landed on the wrong cove.


On the road again...with David and Kelly taking a short sleep.
A mural of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk's victory at Gallipoli.

Our group with Turkey's landscape in the background.
So that was the end of the first day on the road, and we stayed in Canakkale that night. The next day was a full day. We visited the historic Troy, Pergamum/Pergamom/Bergama depending upon which language you use, and ended in Ephesus. Troy was rather anticlimactic as it was only composed of old walls and a horse. The tour guide provided us with all this minutiae that Troy became a city that went through 9 stages, with a number of changing walls and nothing more.

Here's the famous Trojan horse with the famous UNC Burch Fellows' students peeping out, waiting for night to defeat Troy. (The horse is a modified, slightly newer model built in the 20th century)

Our next stop was a lot more interesting. Pergamum, in its heyday, was a city of great prosperity. It was a city where the military was trained, so there was a constant change of residents within the city's boundaries. An interesting fact: Pergamum was known for its infallible hospital and because of this no one was allowed entrance into the city if they were, as our tour guide said, "sick of death." In other words, if you were ill or on the verge of death, you were not allowed to enter Pergamum. (No wonder the hospital always had a great reputation!)

Here's a photo of Yekta, Clayton and David posing in front of a beautiful set of Pergamum's columns.

Here's a snapshot of the beautiful theater, which still holds concerts to this day.
Tomorrow we plan on touring Ephesus, a Grecian village, Virgin Mary's home, and a museum. We are surely going to have calves of steel by the end of this trip.
 

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